Tuesday, September 11, 2012

Peace like a River: Late September, 2001



At 6:30 in the morning, the sun isn’t quite ready to officially start the day.  I head north through the streets of Alexandria, past sleeping shuttered townhouses. At this hour, the town belongs to early-bird joggers, dog-walkers, and delivery trucks. King Street is virtually empty-- a straight line from the Masonic Memorial to the Potomac.

The Potomac is a fluid American history lesson, marking the unofficial dividing line between North and South, and acting as a natural window into the past for all who follow its path.

Travel upriver from George Washington’s home at Mt. Vernon  to Alexandria, the port town that has transitioned from tobacco and torpedos to cruise ships, tall ships, and tourists. Alexandria –where George Washington truly did sleep, eat, worship, and celebrate--lays claim also to the Lees, both Lighthorse Harry and Robert E., as well as a number of famous visitors, from revolutionary times to the present. Pass beneath the Woodrow Wilson Bridge, named for another of Virginia’s presidential sons, as controversial in his time as his namesake is today.

I join the parkway where the park begins. My route follows the river past Ronald Reagan National Airport, the Lyndon Johnson Memorial Grove, the Lincoln and Jefferson Memorials, the Kennedy Center, and encompasses views of the Washington Monument and the Capitol.  With the river drawing attention on the right, it’s almost impossible to watch the opposite side of the road—but if I pay attention, I can see the Pentagon there, and Arlington Cemetery, guarded by the Custis-Lee Mansion on the hill above. Immediately below it is the Kennedy gravesite, with its eternal flame.

Georgetown University appears on the opposite shore, and the National Cathedral; the old USA Today building looms, and there are signs for the Iwo Jima Memorial. Crews from Georgetown row each morning, and Roosevelt Island  beckons joggers on the right.

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I have the best commute in Washington. I travel alongside the river and it changes every day. There are mornings that are pink with promise, as the sun hits the water through rosy sunrise clouds. There are mists and fogs that turn the river gunmetal gray and other-worldly.  There are days that the river is blue and bright and beckoning, and the river-mirrored arches of the bridges beg for paints and brush (and talent) to capture them forever. All these changes are anchored and held fast by the familiar architecture and daily fabric of my life, my work, my world. Comfortable and safe, I can daydream my way to work, indulging in historical fantasies, considering books I could write, or pictures I could paint. I often think that I should  carry a camera with me and take a picture each morning to record the moods and faces of the river. I never do it. In the world I inhabit, there are years of possibility just over the horizon, just around the bend of the river, and “someday” has always been enough of a deadline.

Things are different now. The airport is silent as I pass, and each landmark monument is replaced in the blink of an eye by a blazing funeral pyre—and just as quickly returns to its normal appearance. It’s no longer hard to see the Pentagon. It draws my eye like a magnet, a tragic lodestone inscribed with the names of friends and neighbors. The Capitol stands clear on the skyline, but every sight asks, “What if…?” What if I had to look every day at an empty place in this landscape?  What if the wisdom of the past, and the sacrifices of yesterday are not enough to ensure that life as we know it will go on? The world has irretrievably changed, and with it, my complacency. The face of evil is reflected in the mirror of our daily lives, in the image of our icons, in the waters of our rivers. We will never be quite the same.

Lamb of God, who takes away the sins of the world, grant us peace.




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